Raising the black point gives your photos a softer, low-contrast lookģ6. They can be found under the tone curve when clicking on the ‘point curve’ buttonģ5. The Tone curve has two presets, one for medium and one for strong contrast. Negative dehaze can be used to add artificial fog to your photo Tone Curve Panelģ4. For a dreamy look, try using negative clarity, but be careful not to lose too much detailģ3.
This way you’re adding contrast, but you also have more control over the contrastģ2. Instead of the contrast slider, try dropping the shadows or blacks while increasing highlights or whites. Hold the alt key and drag the tone sliders to see over- or underexposure come inģ1. When Shift-double click on a slider like blacks or whites Lightroom tries to push those as far as possible without over- or underexposureģ0. This might help you get a better idea for the photo you’re working onĢ9.
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If you’re unsure how to expose the photo, you can click the ‘auto’ button to let Lightroom do it automatically. Similar, dropping the Temperature can give your image a cold, spooky lookĢ8. Increasing the white balance temperature can give your photo an awesome golden hour look (you don’t always have to use a ‘correct’ white balance)Ģ7. Get a proper White Balance using the Eye Dropper Tool on a neutral area (RGB values close to each other, those are shown in the small preview window when hovering over the image with the white balance eye dropper)Ģ6. A flat profile like Adobe Neutral might give you some more dynamic range in certain situations, I love using it on very contrast-rich sunset or sunrise shots for exampleĢ5. The Profile’s strength is adjustable with the slider all the way up in the profile menuĢ4. You can add new profiles to the profile drop-down menu by clicking the small star icon in the upper right corner of the profile preview thumbnailĢ3. There are many more profiles to choose from under ‘Browse’ in the profiles drop-down menuĢ2. Quickly switch to Black & White by changing the TreatmentĢ1. For a fake polarization effect, you can use the color range mask, select the blue part of the sky and then drop the exposureĢ0. With a radial gradient you can add very cool-looking glow by raising the blacks and dropping dehazeġ9. Invert this radial gradient and drop the exposure to create a vignetting effectġ8. With the Radial Gradient mask hold the control key and double-click in the photo to create a radial gradient that’s as big as your photoġ7. The brush mask has an Auto Mask setting which helps quickly select objectsġ6. Quickly activate or deactivate the mask overlay by pressing Oġ5. Masks can be further modified by adding or subtracting other masksġ4. Although the ‘Luminance Range Mask’ has no eyedropper icon, you can still click in the photo to select the luminance range you want to targetġ3. You can pick multiple colors with the ‘Color Range Mask’ by holding down the shift key and clicking in the photoġ2. This works better with wildlife photos than with landscape shotsġ1. An inverted ‘Select Subject’ mask works great to make a subject pop by dropping the exposure for example.
To quickly select the landscape, I use the Select Sky mask and simply invert itġ0. This is a great time saver and works great, even on more complex imagesĩ.
Select Subject or Select Sky Masks try to automatically select the subject or the sky. By switching the spot removal tool from ‘clone’ to ‘heal’ you can remove smaller objects from your photo MaskingĨ. With the spot removal tool you can activate ‘visualize spots’ to make sensor spots more visibleħ. Clicking on the ‘Original’ Button reveals a bunch of different crop presets such as 1×1 which works great for Instagram for example Spot Removal ToolĦ.